Friday, December 9, 2011

A TENDERLOIN TALE: Life and Death on Eddy Street




A TENDERLOIN TALE:
Life and Death on Eddy Street

By

Aoi Tokugawa


Tenderloin : n.1. The most tender part of a loin of beef, pork, or similar cut of meat.
2. A city district notorious for vice and graft.

There is nothing tender about the Tenderloin of San Francisco; the name is deceptive for people who are not thoroughly familiar with San Francisco and its neighborhoods. The district is triangular in shape, bordered on the southeast by Market Street, on the west by Van Ness Avenue, and on the north by Geary Street. Within that triangle, what some police officers less than affectionately refer to as the “Bermuda Triangle,” live the scum of the city: petty thieves, burglars, thugs, robbers, pimps, prostitutes, pickpockets, drug addicts, and just plain drunks; as well as every kind of perverted freak, crackpot, eccentric, and nutcase one could possibly imagine, and probably some that no one thus far knows about. The streets are dirty, the buildings old and foul, garbage lines the gutters and alleys, and everything smells of stale beer, vomit, urine, and feces. It is a holiday playground for rats and the other vermin of the city. It is also home to those without a home, the last refuge for those who have no refuge.
If (and when) a person has some money, they can stay in some fleabag SRO (single room occupancy) hotel; a residential hotel where people may rent (but not so cheaply) a room typically ridden with fleas, bed bugs, mice, rats and cockroaches, for a week or a month. The restroom and bathroom are typically located down the hall, shared by everyone on that floor. The inside of a room often smells old, damp, and moldy. If there is an elevator to the upper floors, it usually doesn’t work, and one is forced then to use the stairs, perhaps covered in worn out carpeting of an uncertain color and pattern. People come and go at all times of day or night, often not quietly. The walls are typically paper-thin and a resident can easily overhear the words of an argument, drug deal, or bad dream.
Senior officer John Kelly and rookie officer Brian O’Neil of the San Francisco Police Department knew every SRO hotel in the district; not just by name but also by layout; and visits to the SROs were a daily occurrence. They were not social calls, but calls for service: predators of one sort or another preying on their weaker neighbors. Kelly and O’Neil knew the predators, the troublemakers, the thugs and bullies, and their victims by name as well. It was a small neighborhood, a village within a city. The two men also knew many of the men and women who could not enjoy the “luxuries” offered by an SRO: the men and women who slept in the parks, in the alleyways, and populated empty doorways at night. They were people unwanted, uncared for, and unknown except to the cops who walked the beat.
“What’s with people John?” asked O’Neil, who rarely took things at face value and always wanted to look beneath the surface of things: to understand why people and circumstances were the way they were. “The city is a big place, it’s a big state. Why do so many of these people drift down here? There’s nothing for them.”
“Well, for one thing, it’s a good place to get lost in…they think,” replied “Big John” Kelly, a veteran of over 20 years with the department, many of them spent on the streets of the Tenderloin.
“What do you mean?”
“A person can disappear here…almost. It’s pretty easy to become nearly invisible when you’re one out of 750,000 people, or so the thinking goes. And, to a point, that’s true. However, when you put yourself into a community, a neighborhood that is only what 20,000, 30,000, you become a lot more visible than you think you are. And when you become a street person, well, that makes you even more visible.”
“Yeah, I get you. A small fish in a very large pond, suddenly becomes a small fish in a much smaller pond.”
“Right. And if you act up, if you do something to stand out more, then you become a bigger fish in that smaller pond. Some of these people are criminals that don’t want to be found. They don’t want an address, they don’t want a bank account, or bills that might lead people like you and me to find them. Some are unregistered sex offenders, rapists, muggers, pedophiles, that don’t want to be found. The law says they must register within 72 hours of arriving in a town or city, but they don’t. They just try to disappear, go undetected, so either they don’t have to comply with the law, or more often than not, they can go right on doing what they’ve been doing.”
“Yeah,” said O’Neil, shaking his head.
“But,” continued Kelly, “they don’t disappear. Nine times out of ten, they can’t maintain that anonymity. They screw up somehow, someway, and you and I find them. Maybe they swipe a bottle of cheap booze from the shelf of some liquor store, maybe they get caught buying some drugs, maybe we find ‘em passed out in some doorway or alley from the booze they stole, or near death from bad dugs…and there’s a lot of that around here. Maybe they’re just acting strangely: different enough to attract our attention. That’s why we stop and talk to them, find out their names, run them for wants and warrants, or make out an FI (field interrogation) Card. Like I said, one way or the other, they screw up, even just a little bit, and boom! They’re not invisible anymore and we bag ‘em.
“That’s one of the reasons I want you to learn these people’s names. It’s easier for me, I’ve been here for a whole bunch of years, so each week, I just add a few names to my list.” Kelly let out a soft chuckle. “I guess I cross a few names off my list each week too. Whatever. But you’ve got to learn the whole crew, the whole pond of fish.”
“What about the nut cases? The psychotics, the schizophrenics, and the ones that no one can even diagnose?”
“Well, buddy-boy, they don’t make it in the smaller towns and cities, like San Rafael, or Napa, or even Sacramento; although there’s a lot of ‘em in Berkeley…they blend right in there. But in the small towns and cities, they’re getting picked up every few days, put in the “psycho ward” for seventy-two hours, and then are released in a few days with a pocket full of meds. When the meds are gone, they’re picked up again, and the cycle repeats. A cop friend of mine, who works in Marin County, told me about one guy, psychotic or manic-depressive, I don’t remember; but, he got arrested one day in San Anselmo, two days later he was arrested again for being a “nutcase” in San Rafael, and two days after that, for the same thing in Novato.” O’Neil laughed.
“Now the point is, that these “whack-jobs” get hassled in small towns and cities. A lot of them like their little dream worlds. A lot of them want a little peace and quiet, a little freedom to enjoy their fantasy worlds or their own private little hells. Which leads us back to the ‘little fish in the big pond theory.’ They’re less likely to get hassled, less often, here. And some of them are smart enough to know that they can make a little money on the side, selling the meds the city gives them when they do get picked up and are put in some kind of treatment program.”
The two officers stepped into a run-down corner market to see who was loitering inside, perhaps trying to shoplift a can a beer or maybe some food, and then chatted with the owner for a few minutes. When they had stepped back out into the daylight and continued on their way, O’Neil asked, “What about the people that just don’t have anything? Why do they come here, there’s nothing for them?”
“But there is stuff here for them. There are cheap second-hand stores where they can buy clothes if they have a few bucks; the city will provide for their medical care, put them on welfare and give them a stipend; and when the money is gone, or they just don’t have any, they’re at Saint Anthony’s Dining Room and Glide Memorial Church, where they can get a free hot meal, maybe some clothing, toothpaste, toothbrush…that kind of thing.”

O’Neil looked up. They were at the corner of Taylor and Ellis Streets, coincidentally at the front door of Glide Memorial. Run by a charismatic man, a black man, the Reverend Cecil Williams. Glide’s self-stated mission was a simple one: to create an all-inclusive, just and loving community intent on alleviating suffering and breaking the cycles of poverty and a minimal existence.

The two officers walked around the corner onto Ellis Street and began patrolling the long line of derelicts waiting, in some semblance of order, for admission into the dining hall where a hot, nutritious dinner awaited them. They walked up and down the long line, which extended almost to the corner of Jones Street; and as they walked they looked at the faces, old and young, black and white, Hispanic and Asian; some healthy, some sickly, some happy, some looking back at the cops with unhidden hatred in their eyes. The first things on the cops’ minds, as they regarded the faces they passed, were who was potential trouble; then, who had warrants for their arrest and who was wanted for investigation of recent felonies or misdemeanors committed in the community against their neighbors? That was part of their job: take the bad guys off the street for as long as possible so that the weak or the defenseless could enjoy a little peace – for a little while.

There was still another reason that they walked back and forth along the line, from the front door of Glide to the corner of Jones. There existed, on that block between the Young-Ellis Food Center (where you could buy a cheap six-pack of malt liquor or beer), and Glide Memorial (where you could get a hot meal, maybe some clean clothes, and maybe someone to help you get a place to stay), a certain conflict. The discord was a simple one between the requirements for good manners (as good as could be expected in the Tenderloin under the circumstances) made by the good folks at Glide, and the “hierarchy” of the predators of the street who had a general disregard for anything resembling acceptable social conduct. As far as the police and Glide were concerned, there was to be no yelling, cursing, shoving; nor was there to be any stealing, fighting, or cutting into line ahead of someone who had already established their spot and was patiently waiting for some food. It hadn’t been but a few short weeks since Kelly and O’Neil, along with Inspector Keith Gallagher and Inspector Greg Gonzales, had worked together to investigate a homicide right there on the street in front of the BlueWater Wash Laundromat, at 372 Ellis.
There hadn’t been much to the crime really. It was getting on toward dinner time and the long line of San Francisco’s most poor had gathered along the street, right up to the corner of Jones. A middle-aged man, Bill Saunders, as Kelly put it, “Professional Alcoholic,” was standing in line, in front of the Laundromat, when a surly black fellow, in jeans, a prison-style jeans jacket, and black stocking cap, simply cut into the line so that he could talk to a friend just in front of Bill. Now, that’s bad manners in any society, whether it’s waiting in line for the opera or for “grub” at Glide; and certainly it’s against the foundation’s unwritten laws of conduct. Bill took acceptation to being cut in front of, and being (for the present) sober and suffering from a grand hangover headache, he said something. Words, most of them rude, were exchanged and then the man who had cut in front of Bill, simply drew a cheap revolver out of his coat pocket and shot him in the face. Saunders never got that meal, he was dead before he hit the pavement.
Kelly and O’Neil were, as was often the case, first on the scene. Of course, the suspect in the homicide had run off, but surprisingly there were some good eyewitnesses, ready and willing to step forward; after all, it could have just as easily have been one of them. While Gonzales and Gallagher checked the crime scene, the two street cops, armed with a good description and a strong idea of who the “perp” (perpetrator) was, headed down Jones Street for three and a half blocks to the front of Saint Anthony’s Dining Room. Sure enough, the man they were looking for was standing in line, nonchalantly waiting for dinner. The suspect didn’t go willingly, he fought “Big Kelly” and O’Neil with everything he had, short of pulling his gun again to shoot the two cops; but nonetheless, he went.
On this particular day, there was no violence, no disorder, only some loud chatter, and some good-natured horsing around. Kelly and O’Neil continued to walk up and down the line, even as it started to move forward once the front doors to the dining room had opened, chatting with people they knew as they went. As he was chatting with one older, black woman, Kelly heard a loud, deep, moist, racking cough from farther back in the line. The two officers walked in the direction of the hacking, up to one of the newer faces in the line, a man in his mid-thirties with glasses, wearing a pair of blue jeans, a red plaid flannel shirt, and a heavy blue parka. The man coughed again, almost rocking off his feet and then panting at its conclusion. “You’re Eric aren’t you?” asked Kelly. The man nodded, still unable to quite catch his breath.
The two officers remembered Eric because he kept his clothes clean, his hair trimmed, and his face shaved. “That sounds really bad. Are you going to be ok?”
“Just a cold,” rasped Eric. “It’ll be fine in a couple of days.”
“Well, you ought to get that checked out, even if it is a cold,” said Kelly. “Out here, small things, things that are not so good, tend to get a lot worse real fast.” He dug into one of his jacket pockets and took out a card for one of the city’s local free clinics, over on Grove and Polk Streets, and handed the card to the man. “Trust me. I’ve been working here a long time and I know what I’m talking about. Go see these folks and get that taken care of, ok?”
Erick stifled another cough, accepted the card, and nodded.”
“Ok.” continued Kelly, “And take your time eating your dinner. Stay in there as long as you can and get warm. We’ll see you later.” And with that, the two cops walked back down to Glide Memorial and into the dining room, edging their way through the crowd at the door. Kelly looked around for a minute and then found who he was looking for: Reverend Williams. While O’Neil walked from table to table chatting with familiar people from the streets, Kelly walked over to the head of Glide Memorial and talked to the gentle man quietly, giving the Reverend a complete description of Eric, including the bad cold the man had, and asking that, if possible, could they please give Eric an extra helping of whatever they could and let him stay inside as long as possible. Williams nodded his head and said he’d do exactly that, and that he’d also see if he couldn’t find him some medicine to help. Kelly expressed his appreciation and then pulled a five-dollar bill out his pocket. “Here, take this Reverend. It’s all I brought with me today, but I hope it will help.”
“Every little bit does just that Mr. Kelly. Every little bit,” said Reverend Williams.
Although feeling miserable, Eric was both surprised and a little elated when later, as he finished his last bit of coffee and was about to get up from the table to leave, Reverend Williams came over to him and handed him another dinner tray and another cup of coffee. “You’ve got a couple of guardian angels looking out for you,” said the man in a soft voice with a broad smile on his face.
“Oh? Who’s that Reverend?”
“Those two cops that were in here a little while ago: Kelly and O’Neil. Their kind of worried about you.”
Eric just nodded and said, “Thanks.”
“They also told me you’ve got a pretty bad cold going on.”
Eric stifled a cough. “Yeah, but it should be better soon. The big officer gave me the address of a clinic. A free clinic.”
“Well, the clinic’s closed for the evening. And I’m sure it will get better, but stay in here for a while out of the cold, while I look around for something that might help that a bit.”
Five minutes later, the Reverend Williams was in a nearby drug store, buying a bottle of strong cold medicine with the money Kelly had given him. “It may not cure that cold, but it definitely will help.”
Later that evening, Eric set up the small, dome-like pop-up tent he carried on top of his backpack, the one that contained everything he owned in the world, in a narrow vacant dirt lot, overgrown with weeds, between two buildings. He took a sip of the medicine he had been given, and then, still wearing his parka, made specifically for cold weather, lay down in a semi-circle, his two worn wool blankets tucked around him and his pack, and drifted off to sleep.
Eric Johansen: thirty-five years old, formerly from San Jose, California; before that, he had been Eric Johansen, of Minneapolis, Minnesota, computer engineer. Twelve years earlier, he had taken a job with a computer software company in “Silicon Valley,” San Jose, at first engineering complex computer software and then also writing, the technical manuals that went with them. They weren’t the kind of manuals that the general public would use, no WonderWord for Dummies. No, these were incredibly detailed and complex, meant for the highest levels of computer “geeks” and “nerds” playing with the latest generations of almost super computers. His job had been great and he had made a good salary. He married a beautiful California girl with blond hair, blue eyes, and big breasts; and together they had two children and a nice suburban home in the hills of Mountain View. Everything had been going extremely well, he thought, until two years ago when his company, which had suffered from a combination of bad management and greedy executives, was forced into bankruptcy. First, he lost his job, and then he couldn’t find another; what’s more, in a short while he had lost his wife: a simple case of “no money, no honey.” She filed for divorce, took the two kids, and left him with a mortgage he couldn’t pay and more alimony and child support payments than he could ever have imagined possible.
When his unemployment insurance ran out, he felt like he had been kicked in the gut; and when he couldn’t find another job, he decided to try any kind of employment he could find: anything that would give him some money. But in the meanwhile, things had become bad all over. The national economy was bad. Officially, they called it a “recession” but to Eric Johansen and a lot of other people it was a depression; and just as in the depression of the 1930s, like so many people, he found himself without a house, home, family, or friends. He even asked his parents, back in Minnesota, good “born-again” evangelical Christians, for help: but in vain. It was obvious to them, they said, that he had turned his back on Jesus, forsaken the lord, when he moved to California and married outside of the church. His suffering was God’s way of bringing him back to Jesus. They wouldn’t interfere.
“Jesus has nothing to do with this,” he told them, just before he slammed down the phone. He never spoke with them again.
Eventually he drifted north, up the San Francisco Peninsula, to the city and the only place that seemed likely to even remotely tolerate the homeless: the Tenderloin.
He was neither the strongest of men nor the weakest of men. He despaired; yet, he did not give up. It took all the courage he could muster, from deep within himself, to make a small sign from a piece of scrap cardboard and to sit with it on Fulton Street between Hyde and Larkin. “Will work for food,” it read: honest and straightforward. On the first day he begged for four hours, seated with his sign on the curb next to the magnificent Pioneer Monument, which was dedicated to all the great men who had a hand in founding the Golden State and San Francisco, and with the great stone buildings of city government and culture surrounding him, the Asian Art Museum, the main Public Library, the courthouses, and City Hall; however, there was no job for him, no food, nor a single new penny. As the sun began to set and he walked away, headed towards Glide Memorial, he was almost in tears at the thought of what his life had become.
But the next day he was back. Perhaps, he thought, the second try would be easier, and conceivably it was, for he stayed the entire day. There was still no job, but he did manage to gather a few dollars. The next day he was back again; and so it went, day after day, and hour after hour. He was able to buy a little food, soap, and a cheap razor. Daily he would find some public restroom and wash his face and hands, shave, and comb his hair. Twice a week, at night, he would hike to Golden Gate Park, several miles to the west, there to bathe in the icy waters of Stow Lake or some other pond. He hated that. The hikes from the Tenderloin out to the park and back were long and the chilly waters made his bones ache; yet, he knew that his hygiene was important. To remain as clean as he could meant he had a better chance of remaining healthy; and by maintaining some semblance of good grooming, he just might be able to convince someone that he was worthy of a chance at a job. He refused to fall into the trap that so many of those unfortunates around him fell into: letting their appearance and their cleanliness decline, falling into disease – a deadly downward spiral.
With the little money he was able to get, he sometimes bought food, fresh vegetables and fruit, in the weekly “farmer’s market” that was held on the next block across Hyde Street. But he did not squander what he had. Some of it he set aside and eventually he was able to purchase a small transistor radio and batteries. Then he was able to listen to the news each day, to listen to conversations on “talk radio,” and to the classical music and jazz he had always loved. These were Eric’s luxuries. The first time he used his radio and found the local classical music radio station on the small dial, they were playing Mozart’s 25th Symphony: one of his favorites. That day the music, the sound of that symphony, warmed his heart; and at the same time, it seemed to speak to him of the gravity of his situation. Tears welled up in his eyes.
Even though he now had bits of extra food, and could spend his days with Brubeck and Bartok, Mingus and Mozart by way of his small radio, he was still hungry and the days remained long, tedious, and relatively empty. There was no stimulation except for that provided by the fear of the predators in the Tenderloin who would not hesitate to rob or kill the weaker, less aggressive residents for whatever it was they decided, at that moment, they wanted and the other person had. Eric did his utmost to remain out of their sight and thus out of mind; avoiding them and their hangouts as though they had the black plague. He wanted to keep what little he had and to live: he had not altogether given up hope.
Sometimes fate and circumstance are so set against someone that not even the smallest break comes their way; but Eric perhaps still had a guardian angel watching him and looking over his shoulder. It was in early summer when two things occurred to alter his life in small, but still significant ways. The first occurred on a warm afternoon as he sat by the Pioneer Monument with his small sign made of cardboard. Several coins and a few dollar bills sat in the bottom of an empty coffee can he had placed in front of the sign; however, nothing else noteworthy had happened. He began to doze in the warm afternoon sun and his mind drifted back to when he had been, what seemed now, so infinitely younger and naïve. He recalled something that one of his college professors had told him: that without stimulation, without challenges, without care, the human mind could atrophy, become ill, wither and die, just as the body would. At that recollection, he opened his eyes with the kernel of an idea developing in his thoughts. There were, for now, no jobs for him, no work, and no challenge except for staying alive; yet, there was something he could do.
He had learned to write in college, to use words to express his thoughts. He had done it a hundred times in creating the technical computer manuals at his work in San Jose. Mozart’s Requiem Mass in D minor was playing on his radio. It was tragic music, heartrending and yet soaring, playing there for him as he sat on the edge of the most pitiful and heartrending part of San Francisco, where people barely existed and eventually spiraled downward into death’s waiting arms. He could write about that. The calamity of the Tenderloin was all around him; indeed, he was now a part of it. If written well, he decided, if written properly, just perhaps people would read about it: even pay to read about it. Sudden Eric was excited. He had a purpose, a mission, and a chance at the single handhold he had sought to pull himself out of depths that threatened to envelope him. He put the money from his coffee can into his pocket; put his sign and the can into his backpack, and walked quickly, with a new determination, up Hyde Street and then down Eddy Street to a small used book store; one that seemed as dilapidated as every other place in the district and as derelict as he had felt up until a few moments earlier. He quickly searched the shelves, almost as a man possessed, until he found what he wanted: a worn copy of Webster’s Colligate Dictionary. With almost all the money he had collected that day, he purchased the book, and then dashed over to Walgreen’s Drugs on Market Street at Third, where he took the remainder and bought some pencils, a sharpener, and a spiral notebook of yellow lined paper. That evening, as he sat in St. Anthony’s Dining Room, eating a warm meal, he began to write: Castaway: A Modern Robinson Crusoe.
The second thing to happen to Eric occurred that very evening as he sat eating and writing. One of the Franciscan priests from St. Anthony’s, coincidentally and perhaps fortuitously named Father Anthony, noticed the man, clean shaven and looking not nearly as scruffy as most of their visitors, writing as he ate. The priest sat down next to Eric and began a conversation that went on for over an hour. At its conclusion, Father Anthony invited the man to come and see him in the church office the next day. He would help him to get enrolled in the city’s “GA” or General Assistance Program (a kind of welfare program) which would provide him with a stipend that would help with food and lodging, as well as government Food Stamps, another program which enabled the needy to obtain basic, healthy foods, in exchange for a type of script they would provide him; in essence, for free.
Within a few weeks, Eric had enough money each month to afford newer, cleaner clothes, fresh underwear, and more importantly, he had food. But Eric was no fool; unlike so many who would spend the GA money as soon as it was received. He was frugal and budgeted what little there was. There weren’t sufficient funds to cover every expense, at least not completely. He had to decide how best to spend the money, to put it to the best use and to make it last for a month: no easy task in a city noted for its high prices. Even a studio apartment cost over $1,000 dollars a month and thus, was out of the question. But he did have enough, with care, to afford a room in an SRO hotel, a week at a time, for two weeks each month. There he would have a bed, shower and toilet facilities, and warmth. Should he stay in such a place for two weeks in a row or spread it out, alternate one week in and one week on the street? He opted for alternating weeks.
And so it went for the rest of the summer, into autumn and then winter. The first week of each month, he would take a room and enjoy the luxury of hot showers and a bed; all the while working on Castaway. The second week, he would camp out, living in his small, round popup tent and out of his backpack; eating breakfast and dinner on alternating days at St. Anthony’s and Glide. Then on the third week, he would be back in a hotel, perhaps preparing his own food on a small electric hotplate; then on the fourth week, back onto the streets. But almost always, the GA money ran out before the end of the month, and Eric would be forced to bring out his small cardboard sign once again, along with his coffee can, and seek alms. Often, at those times, he could not afford paper and was forced to write on whatever scraps of paper he could find, often in the trash bins behind nearby office buildings. Pink paper, white paper, yellow paper, it didn’t matter as long as there was blank space to write on. Later, when he was back in an SRO, he would transcribe his writings to his notebooks. On days when it was too cold to be out, or raining, he would pitch his tent in a small vacant lot on Eddy Street; a narrow space where a building had been torn down but no replacement constructed, overgrown with wild grasses and strewn with litter, to listen to the radio and write until his paper ran out; venturing out only for food and more paper. He wrote every day, and when a chapter was completed, he edited and re-edited it. Despite the cold and the damp, Eric had a purpose.
It was on one of those days, those miserable, meager days, at the end of the month, in late winter, when Eric again met Officer Kelly and his partner Officer O’Neil. He sat in his usual spot, by the Pioneer Monument, with his sign and his coffee can, his radio playing, and his pencil busy on pieces of pink paper he had found in a dumpster. The two cops stayed for quite a while, chatted, and seemed genuinely interested in what he had been doing since their last encounter: particularly in what he was writing. He proudly showed them what he had written, the parts on clean lined paper that he had transcribed, and they listened intently as he described the few remaining chapters he wanted to write, and the intentions he had for himself if only the story could be published as a book. What he didn’t mention was that winter had been hard: unusually cold and wet, that he was ill, and was becoming more so. He couldn’t, as hard as he tried, completely conceal the deep cough that had persisted since their last meeting; but he explained that he was going to the city’s free clinic and taking medicine for it. “Just one of those things that wants to hang on until the absolute end,” he told Kelly with a faint smile. But what he didn’t tell the tall Irish cop was what the “absolute end” actually meant. He hadn’t lied exactly, he was going to the clinic, and he was being treated; but it wasn’t for a cold or even pneumonia, it was the “black plague” of the Tenderloin – tuberculosis.
Was Eric doomed? He thought not. The people at the free clinic, the doctors, had told him that it was a very resilient form of the disease, a tough fighter, but one that could be controlled. How he had come by it there was no saying for certain. Perhaps someone with the same disease had coughed on him in line at one of the soup kitchens, or on his food as he ate; or perhaps he had come in contact with the disease in one of the SROs he stayed at: not an uncommon thing. The disease was not epidemic, but it was prevalent in the poor districts of many cities, they had told him, and that there was a waiting list to get into any of the state hospitals that treated the disease. But they assured him that they could alleviate his symptoms for the present, and in ninety days or less, it would be his turn – guaranteed.
When he first received the news, he again felt devastated, just as shattered as when he lost his job, his family, his home, and found himself in the Tenderloin. Nevertheless, even under this new burden, he refused to yield. He made plans. Between now and then, he would finish Castaway, and while in the hospital, edit and re-edit it over and over again until it was something he could present with pride to a publishing house. He was almost certain that someone would publish it; and with that, he would at last have the opportunity he so desperately wanted: to start his life over again.
The next day, he had a surprise visit from Kelly and O’Neil. As the two officers started their foot patrol that afternoon, they specifically sought him out, and they had brought gifts. O’Neil carried a ream of clean white paper he had bought along the way at a stationery store, and Kelly presented him with a package of five spiral notebooks and a box of pencils. Eric thanked the two cops profusely and wanted to do something in return for them but they would have none of it. “Just hurry up and finish it so we can read it,” said Kelly with a grin. “We want to be the first.”
The next few weeks went by quickly and Eric wrote like a man possessed. When he was living in a hotel, he more often than not stayed inside and wrote. When he was living out of doors, he wrote during the daytime in the park across Polk Street from City Hall or while he was “on station” with his little sign and tin can, at the Pioneer Monument. Something inside told him to hurry and finish his book: that it was important. And Eric told himself that he wanted to have everything transposed onto clean paper before he went to the hospital. He was a man with a mission.
Five days before he was scheduled to leave San Francisco, in order to begin treatment for his tuberculosis at Sonoma State Hospital, in the wine country near Napa, he was at the end of his money and back on the street, camping at night in his little vacant lot on Eddy Street. Somehow he didn’t mind nearly so much this time, because it was for only a few days, and then he’d be safe in the hospital where he would edit Castaway into a presentable manuscript, and then perhaps find a publisher. Things were definitely looking up and he found himself, more than ever, enthused about the future. It was a Monday and he would be leaving on Friday.
That afternoon, he finished the last paragraph on a scrap of yellow paper, a half page, and then he carefully, lovingly, bound everything together with several rubber bands and placed it in his backpack. That evening he had dinner at Glide Memorial and then retired to his little round tent in the vacant lot and went to sleep.
Tuesday afternoon, at 3 p.m., John Kelly and Brian O’Neil came out of the locker room at Tenderloin Station and were headed to the briefing room when they were stopped by the shift supervisor, Sergeant Pete Flanagan, a stocky, powerfully built veteran of almost thirty years on the street, with clear blue eyes and a steel gray mustache trimmed and waxed meticulously in RAF style. “Forget about briefing guys. I need you to head up the street to that vacant lot between Leavenworth and Hyde. We’ve got a report of a DB (a dead body) there.
“We’re on it,” said O’Neil with a nod as he and his partner picked up fresh portable radios and then headed out the door. Halfway down the block, he said to Kelly, “I’ve got a bad feeling in my gut about this, John.”
It took all of three minutes to walk to the scene were several people had gathered around the opening to the small vacant lot that Eric used to camp in during “outside” weeks. No one in the group wanted to admit being the one to find the body, which was just visible at the far back end of the lot, partially hidden in the weeds. Kelly held the crowd back while O’Neil walked through the lot and approached the body. Even from behind, the dead man was recognizable to him. The young officer bent over the prostrate figure, lying on its stomach, with something clutched close to its chest. O’Neil bent down even lower and looked into the face. It was just as he had feared. The face, looking to the side with vacant eyes belonged to Eric; and there was a small bullet hole in the back of his head. But where was his backpack? Where was his tent? Gone! It didn’t take much for the young officer to figure out what had happened. Somebody had wanted the tent or the backpack, or both, and anything else that Eric had of value. They probably rousted him out of his tent, took what they wanted and then executed him.
Slowly, O’Neil walked back to the street and told his partner. “It’s Eric, shot in the head. All his stuff is gone.”
“Ok, you’d better call Gallagher in, his on-call today.”
Five minutes later Inspector Gallagher pulled up to the curb in his black, unmarked sedan and Brian walked over to talk to the detective. He briefly explained how he and his partner happened to know the victim, a little of his history, and how the young officer had found him. Gallagher retrieved a small camera and some evidence envelopes from the trunk of his car and then followed O’Neil to the back of the lot, checking the ground as he went for anything that even remotely resembled a clue. Gallagher hated homicides; not because of the work they entailed but because of the cruelty and the callousness they revealed. Gallagher, better than most people, knew just how cruel and murderous people could be. On one rare occasion, after drinking a few bottles of Guinness stout and shot glasses of Bushmills Irish Whiskey, he had even admitted to both Kelly and O’Neil that he really didn’t like people very much.
Gallagher inspected the bullet wound, there was entry but no exit of the bullet, and then began to take photographs while O’Neil looked around the vicinity, eventually locating a single brass .22 caliber shell casing about ten feet from the body. He marked the place and then went back to the detective and reported it.
Together, they slowly rolled Eric’s body over onto its back. Clutched in his arms, was his manuscript, bound together with at least a dozen rubber bands. Brian explained to Gallagher, “He was writing a book. A book about the Tenderloin, and being homeless, and about everything that happened to him; everything he saw and heard. He hoped that maybe he could do some good with it, and that maybe it would help him to start over, someplace else.” Then the young cop gently tried to slide the stack of papers out from the dead man’s arms. To this day, O’Neil cannot say with one hundred percent certainty why, but he could not get the manuscript away from Eric’s grasp. Whether it was because of rigor mortis or because of the man’s determination not to give up what was most precious to him, he can’t say. It took Gallagher’s assistance, pulling upward on both the victim’s arms, before Brian could slide the papers free. O’Neil held the book in both hands, looked at the title again, and just shook his head.
Thirty minutes later a van from the Medical Examiner’s Office had come and removed the body. As Gallagher was finishing his notes on the case, Brian walked over to him. “Boss, if it’s ok with you, I’m going to hold on to this,” he said, holding up the manuscript.
“Why’s that? I know you’ve got a good reason. So tell me.”
“This guy, Eric, put a lot of time, a lot of work into this. He had something to say. It can either wind up in the property room over at the ME’s office, or in the evidence locker, and it’s really not evidence; or else, I can do something with it. I know what Eric intended for it. If it’s ok, with you, I’d like to keep it and maybe finish what he started.”
Gallagher thought for a few minutes and then looked at the young cop, who he regarded as one of his few close friends. “Ok, you want it that badly, you’ve got it. But let’s just keep it between us and the fence post. Ok?”
“Got it,” answered O’Neil. “Thanks a lot.”
Three months later, with some diligent work by Brian O’Neil, John Kelly, Keith Gallagher, and the Medical Examiner, Dr. Marian Fong, the parents of Eric Johansen were located. At first they were reluctant to accept Eric’s ashes, but after O’Neil explained to them on the telephone that his life had changed significantly and that he attended Sunday services every weekend, alternating between St. Anthony’s Catholic Church and Glide Memorial Church, and that he had been involved in helping the downtrodden of the Tenderloin, they were more willing. And so the City of San Francisco sent the last remains of Eric Johansen back to his childhood home of Minneapolis, Minnesota: everything except Castaway: A Modern Robinson Crusoe.
Over the next few months, O’Neil, in his spare time, retyped the book, editing and re-editing it as he went, until it was in the proper form for submission to a publisher. He made several copies and then passed one on to John Kelly, who read most of it and then decided that the book needed to be seen by someone in the writing business. He took a copy and gave it to a popular columnist at the San Francisco Chronicle, someone he knew from the Washington Street Bar and Grill. In the meanwhile, Brian had registered the manuscript with the U.S. Copyright Office: Castaway: A Modern Robinson Crusoe, by Eric Johansen, Copyright by John J. Kelly and Brian S. A. O’Neil. Brian had decided that the book was worth saving and protecting, and he had plans for it if someone would publish it.
And that’s exactly what happened. Six months later, a publishing house that had been contacted by Kelly’s friend the columnist, bought the publishing rights, and within weeks, hardbound copies of the book were on the shelf of every major bookstore in the region. Book reviewers wrote their praises in magazines and newspapers and talked about it on the radio. Sociologists loved it and the book became the topic of discussion in college circles, and the focus of change for the Tenderloin in the meeting rooms of City Hall. At the direction of Kelly and O’Neil, the proceeds from the book were distributed where they might do the most good, and in a fashion that might have pleased Eric: half went to Glide Memorial and the other half to St. Anthony’s.
One afternoon, just before Christmas that year, as Kelly and O’Neil walked their foot beat and passed the narrow, vacant lot on Eddy Street, O’Neil said to his partner, “You know John, I still feel badly about what happened to Eric Johansen. It was a pretty crappy deal.”
“Oh, don’t feel so bad Brian.”
“Why do you say that? He got murdered didn’t he? Stripped of everything he owned in the world and shot in the head.”
“Yeah, that part is crummy. But on the other hand, it was his “golden ticket” out of here. He was very sick: a lot sicker than we ever knew. He suffered a lot but never let on about it. And now he’s at peace, in a place where no one can ever hurt him again, and there’s no more pain. I really believe that.”
“Yeah, I guess you’re right,” said the younger of the two, a sullen expression still on his face.
“Of course I am. He’s safe now, he’s out of here, and he left one heck of a legacy…his book. That’s a hell of a lot more than a lot of people will be able to say…that they left any kind of a legacy behind them, other than bills. Trust me on this.”
“You know, you’re getting to be pretty wise for an old guy,” said O’Neil with a wink at his partner.
“Well, maybe that’s about the only good thing that comes with getting old. Now, let’s hike over to Glide and see who’s lined up for dinner this evening.” And the two officers walked down the block into the growing dusk.





A TENDERLOIN TALE: TO LIVE AND DIE ON EDDY STREET. Copyright © 2011 by Aoi Tokugawa. Japanese Version Copyright © 2011 by Aoi Tokugawa. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in the United States and Japan by Shisei-Dō Publications. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without prior written permission of the author or publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.

English translation by Tokugawa H.
Illustrations by Tokugawa H.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

FOOD FOR THOUGHT FROM 1890


I was reading through Lafcadio Hearn’s Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, Volume II, Chapter XXVI, “The Japanese Smile,” published in 1984, and once again came upon the extracts from an essay by Viscount Tōrio. The ideas expressed in his essay were at times critical of things Western, of trends within the Meiji government Japanese society; yet, as I read through them, I began to think that there existed in his words of more than one hundred years ago, important lessons for modern Japan as well as contemporary America. I present them now, as Hearn did in his time, as if nothing else, food for thought.


Order or disorder in a nation does not depend on something that falls from the sky or rises from the earth. It is determined by the disposition of the people. The pivot on which the public disposition turns towards order or disorder is the point where public and private motives separate. If the people are influenced chiefly by public considerations, order is assured; but if by private, disorder is inevitable. Public considerations are those that prompt the proper observance of duties; their prevalence signifies peace and prosperity in the way similar to families, communities, and nations. Private considerations are those suggested by selfish motives: when they prevail, disturbance and disorder are unavoidable. As members of a family, our duty is to look after the welfare of that family; as members of a nation, our duty is to work for the good of the nation. To regard our family affairs with all the interest due to our family, and our national affairs with all the interest due to our nation, this is to fitly discharge our duty, and to be guided by public considerations. On the other hand, to regard the affairs of the nation as if they were our own family affairs, this is to be influenced by private motives and to stray from the path of duty.
Selfishness is born in every man; to indulge it freely is to become a beast; therefore, sages preach the principles of duty and propriety, justice and morality, providing restraints for private aims and encour- agements for public spirit… What we know of Western civilization is that it struggled on through long centuries in a confused condition, and finally attained a state of some order, but that even this order, not being based on such principles as those of natural and indisputable distinctions between sovereign and sub- ject, parent and child, with all their corresponding rights and duties, is liable to constant change; according to the growth of human ambitions and human aims. Admirably suited to persons whose actions are controlled by selfish ambition, the adoption of this system in Japan is naturally sought by a certain class of politicians. From a superficial point of view, the Western form of society is very attractive; in as much as, being the outcome of a free development of human desires from ancient times, it represents the very extreme of luxury and extravagance. Briefly speaking, the state of obtaining things in the West is based on the free play of human selfishness, and can only be reached by giving full sway to that quality. In the West, little notice is given to social disturbances; yet they are at once the evidence and the factors of the present evil state of affairs. Do Japanese, enamored with Western ways, propose to have their nation’s history written in similar terms? Do they seriously contemplate turning their country into a new field for experiments in Western civilization?
In the Orient, from ancient times, national gov- ernment has been based on benevolence, and directed to securing the welfare and happiness of the people. No political creed has ever held that intellectual strength should be cultivated for the purpose of exploiting inferiority and ignorance. The inhabitants of this empire live, for the most part, by manual labor. No matter how industrious they are, they hardly earn enough to supply their daily needs. They earn, on the average, about twenty sen daily. For them there is no question of aspiring to wearing fine clothes or to inhabit handsome houses. Neither can they hope to reach positions of fame and honor. What offense have these poor people committed that they also, should not share the benefits of Western civilization? Indeed, by some, their condition is explained on the hypothesis that their desires do not prompt them to better themselves. There is no truth in such a supposition. They have desires, but nature has limited their capacity to satisfy them; their duty as men limits it, and the amount of labor physically possible for a human being limits it. They achieve as much as their opportunities permit. The best and finest products of their labor they reserve for the wealthy; the worst and roughest they keep for their own use. Yet, there is nothing in human society that does not owe its existence to labor. Now, to satisfy the desires of one luxurious man, the work of a thousand is needed. Surely, it is monstrous that those who owe to labor, the pleasures suggested by their civilization, should forget what they owe to the laborer, and treat him as if he were not a fellow being. But civilization, according to the interpretation of the West, serves only to satisfy men of large desires. It is of no benefit to the masses, but is simply a system under which ambitions compete to accomplish their aims. That the Western system is gravely disturbing to the order and peace of a country is seen by men who have eyes, and heard by men who have hears. The future of Japan, under such a system, fills us with anxiety. A system, based on the principle that ethics and religion are made to serve human ambition, naturally agrees with the wishes of selfish individuals; and such theories as those, embodied in the modern formula of liberty and equality, annihilate the established relations of society, and outrange decorum and propriety. Absolute equality and absolute liberty being unattainable, the limits prescribed by right and duty are supposed to be set. But as each person seeks to have as much right and to be burdened with as little duty as possible, the results are endless disputes and legal contentions. The principles of liberty and equality may succeed in changing the organization of nations, in overthrowing the lawful distinctions of social rank, in reducing all men to one nominal level; but they can never accomplish the equal distribution of wealth and property. Consider America…It is plain that if the mutual rights of men and their status are made to depend on degrees of wealth, the majority of the people, being without wealth, must fail to establish their rights; whereas the minority who are wealthy, will assert their rights; and, under society’s sanction, will exact oppressive duties from the poor; neglecting the dictates of humanity and benevolence. The adoption of these principles of liberty and equality in Japan would annul the good and peaceful customs of our country, render the general disposition of the people harsh and unfeeling, and finally prove to be a source of calamity to the masses…
Though at first sight, Western civilization presents an attractive appearance, adapted as it is to the gratification of selfish desires; yet, since its basis is the hypothesis that men’s wishes constitute natural laws, it must ultimately end in disappointment and de- moralization. Western nations have become what they are after passing through conflicts and deviations of the most serious kind; and it is their fate to continue the struggle. Just now, their motive elements are in partial equilibrium, and their social condition is more or less ordered. But if this slight equilibrium happens to be disturbed, they will be thrown once more into confusion, and change; until, after a period of renewed struggle and suffering, temporary stability is once more attained. The poor and powerless of the present may become the wealthy and strong of the future, and vice versa. Perpetual disturbance is their doom. Peaceful equality can never be attained until built up among the ruins of annihilated Western states and the ashes of extinct Western people.


 

 Author’s Footnote: These extracts from a translation of the Japan Daily Mail, November 19, 20, 1890, of Viscount Tōrio’s famous conservative essay do not give a fair idea of the force and logic of the whole. The essay is too long to quote entirely; and any extracts from the Mail’s admirable translation suffer by their isolation from the singular claims of ethical, religious, and philosophical reasoning, which bind the various parts of the composition together. The essay was furthermore remarkable as the production of a native scholar, totally uninfluenced by Western thought. He correctly predicted those social and political disturbances which have occurred in Japan since the opening of the new parliament. Viscount Tōrio is also well known as a master of Buddhist philosophy. He holds a high rank in the Japanese army.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

IN THE SHADOW OF THE SLEEPING LADY: An Essay by Aoi Tokugawa







IN THE SHADOW OF THE SLEEPING LADY

By

Aoi Tokugawa


I
A Boat Ride on the Bay

I had never been there before. In truth, I had never imagined that such a place existed in California; nor that such a place could be found existing so close to San Francisco. Oh, of course, I had visited San Francisco before; I went there with my husband. The first time I visited the city, I was a tourist, visiting the city by the Golden Gate or “Baghdad by the Bay” as it has often been called, seeing an exotic place: what tourists see. The second time I visited San Francisco, it was to see the city that tourists do not see. Much of what I saw was through the eyes of one of the city’s policemen; offering me views of the city that looked into the heart of its neighborhoods and its people. Still, I never believed that such places as Marin County, Sausalito, Mill Valley, or Point Reyes, places of stark contrast when compared to the city, existed but a few moments’ drive across the Golden Gate.
Early in the morning of my first visit to these wonderful places, I stood on a dock by San Francisco Bay, beneath a clear blue sky, the first such sky in several weeks, as though it was provided specifically for my own special delight. Seagulls, white and gray, with brilliant yellow beaks flew overhead, while others, not so energetic, perhaps feeling a bit lazy in the early morning air, sat on the railings at the water’s edge, looking at me, watching me, perhaps hoping that I would provide them with some tasty tidbit for their breakfast. Close behind me was the long, gray sandstone and bronze Victorian façade of the Ferry Building, with its tall clock tower rising to the blue; a sight which could be seen from far across the bay in Oakland and Berkeley, and westward along the miles of “the slot,” as Market Street is often called by natives of the city; a broad avenue through the sheer cliffs of granite, stone, and glass that line both its sides for as far as the eye could see.
I stood and waited in the shadow of that historic building, which had existed in its current form, far back into the 19th century, and which had survived the devastating 1906 earthquake, providing a symbol of hope to San Francisco’s residents. Certainly, my husband and I could have driven the few miles westward from the heart of the city and across the Golden Gate to Marin County, but he insisted that a boat trip across the bay, to the shores of Marin, was truly the only way to do justice to San Francisco and its bay. I watched, not without some trepidation, as our boat approached; white and blue, and big enough to hold at least two hundred people, the water breaking white at its bow, hurried to dock. Coming from a mountainous region of Japan, I was not accustomed to the idea of sailing across a large and deep body of water. From the back of my mind came a voice saying one was quite intended to keep their feet on solid ground, not to go motoring across the blue waters of this inlet of the Pacific Ocean. With my husband’s reassurance, and inspired by his own smile of delight and enthusiasm, we boarded the M.V. Marin and within a few minutes we were making way across the deep, cold water to someplace new.
As we pulled away from San Francisco, I stood on the main deck, outside at the stern, with the chilled wind, laced with the faint fragrance of salt and seaweed, in my face. As I looked back at the city, at the Ferry Building and the Bay Bridge to its left, stretching high in the sky across the water to Treasure Island and beyond, my mind was overwhelmed by the vision. There are no words to describe completely the image accurately. The beauty of the apparition was almost like a dream and took my breath away. To utter the world “beautiful” would have been an understatement.



If I could recall nothing else of those moments on San Francisco Bay, I would remember the blue of the sky. Such a simple thing; but the one that impressed me the most as I stood on the deck of our ferry. It was not the blue of Japan, what Lafcadio Hearn described as the “luminous blue,” the pale, pastel blue that is the roof of Japan; but the deep, rich, almost lusty sapphire blue that is the canopy of California.
As the boat journeyed first toward and then past the infamous prison known as Alcatraz, I watched the bridge and the city recede into the distance, while at the same time the Golden Gate seemed to grow larger. As my husband busied himself with his camera, watching the water and the changing skyline of San Francisco, I stood in the wind and looked into the water, hoping that by some ominous chance, I might catch even a brief glimpse of a great white shark; a brief look at perhaps the deadliest predator of the sea, who is known to inhabit the waters of San Francisco Bay. Yet, from time to time, I would look up and around at my fellow passengers, most of whom were seated, either inside the main cabin or behind windscreens. “Why,” I wondered, “do they just sit? Why are they not looking at the spectacular views from the deck?” This rural traveller, from the mountains of Honshū, could not imagine that anyone would not be mesmerized by the images passing us by.
Not far from Alcatraz Island is Angel Island; much broader and taller, like a rounded mountain top sticking out of the sea, covered in trees, shrubs and golden grasses. We cruised past old, dilapidated barracks and concrete buildings on the island’s east side, the United States Immigration Station, Angel Island: the first port-of-call for Chinese and Japanese immigrants who had come to the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries; just as ominous as Ellis Island in the harbor of New York City. Perhaps making the place seem even gloomier to me were two facts, unknown to most Americans, including residents of the Bay Area. Due to the restrictions of the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, many immigrants spent years on the island, waiting for entry. Likewise, and perhaps worst of all, was the fact that the island’s eastside buildings were used as a holding facility for Japanese prisoners of war during the War in the Pacific.
On the island’s west side is an old U.S. Army fort, Ft. McDowell, dating back to the Civil War and now preserved as a historic site. My husband, ever a source of information tourists are not aware of, pointed out to me that on top of the island, at the very summit, was a Nike missile base, in use during the 1950s and 1960s. Perhaps cynically, I thought, “That is so very much USA!” America always seems to be at war: fighting. I have had this impression for many years now and asked my husband why the United States always seems to be at war. He, who knows war all too well, has told me from time to time, that indeed, America is always fighting; partially due to its own arrogance, and because the country (big, diverse, and often divided along economic, cultural, and racial lines) needs war as a means of unification. The country needs a “boogie-man” to hold things together and to bolster its economy. Moreover, I asked myself, “Why would they place a nuclear missile base (for the air defense missiles were equipped with nuclear warheads) on an island named for angels? Was this some sort of “black joke?”

II
Sausalito

My musing was interrupted by the sudden slowing of the boat in preparation for docking at Sausalito, as it passed the Marin town of Tiburón, situated on a long, narrow peninsula that extends southward into the bay, with its harbors for motor boats and sailboats, and houses perched precariously on the sea cliffs that descended to meet the water. I looked to the south and there was a remarkable sight: the twin towers of the Golden Gate Bridge, raising their heads above the gold and green hills of the Marin Headlands. Then I allowed my eyes to travel northward along the near horizon. There were hills, steep hills, some cloaked in a deep, dark green, others in tones of green and gold, and others entirely covered in gold: the color of the wild grasses of Northern California in the months of summer. The hills were quite remarkable in both their height and their extent, rising and falling, then rising again, into steep ranks of color. I wondered at the countless slopes; in San Francisco to the south covered by houses and apartment buildings, and before me, clothed in the colors of nature. Certainly, I supposed, any kid living in the city, or growing up in Marin County, who practiced Kendō, must be in very good condition from walking up and down such slopes, surely making them strong, tough, and giving them amazing stamina.
Yet, there were even more surprises ahead for me. The hills were dotted by houses of every imaginable shape, size, and color, descending along narrow, winding streets, down to the edge of the bay, where the town of Sausalito itself had grown up. Sausalito, which in Spanish means “a place of abundance,” was originally a fishing village that had grown into a shipbuilding town, rising right at the edge of San Francisco Bay and up the sides of the town’s steep hillsides. Now it is primarily a place for exclusive shops, art galleries and restaurants frequented by tourists, as well as being a “bedroom community” for prominent San Francisco businessmen, artists, and entertainers.



When I was younger, perhaps eighteen years old, and still in high school, a fortuneteller told me that my life was linked to a beach or a coastline. Fate, she told me, had linked me to a town that I had never seen and knew nothing about, in which there were many small houses on the slopes of a mountain near the sea, and a big bridge. When I first visited San Francisco, I thought that perhaps that city was the place she spoke of; certainly, it fit the requirements. Nevertheless, when I saw Sausalito for the first time, I knew that this place, Sausalito and Marin County, was what had appeared in my mind’s eye. So many surprises, and so early in the day! Suddenly I could understand what Jo Ann Beard, one of America’s best essayists meant when she said that she “loved New York for its simple surprises, although in truth, Oregon, Iowa, Arizona, and everywhere else had simple surprises as well: cantaloupe colored sunrises, banded cows, etc.” Everywhere I looked there were simple surprises and I knew that then there would be so many more to come.
The boat’s engines rumbled as, unaided, it maneuvered itself alongside the dock. A gangplank was quickly rolled up to the door at the boat’s side and we disembarked. We walked along the pier, immediately entering into a park-like area where other passengers waited to get onboard. The first person I noticed however, the first resident of Sausalito that I saw, was a man singing and playing a guitar. He was in his fifties perhaps, deeply tanned skin, graying light brown hair, wearing a small black cowboy-style hat, a purple tie-dyed shirt, blue jeans, and no shoes. Sitting on the lap of this musician, himself seated on a park bench, was a tan dachshund, wearing a pair of large sunglasses with multi-colored frames. The man’s songs were wonderful and fun; and the sunglasses seemed to suit the dog, who seemed to thoroughly enjoy the attention he was receiving from the crowd of visitors that quickly gathered around him and his human companion. Perhaps the man was homeless, or simply maybe this was the livelihood the he had chosen for himself, but it did not seem to be very important. What was clear to me was that the man was happy, liked people, liked music, and he liked his dog, who for all the world seemed devoted to him. He was, for all I could tell, a nice man with a cute dog, not a criminal at all, who lived in Sausalito and fit so well into Sausalito’s atmosphere, bright and fresh, and not out of place at all, as perhaps he might have been regarded in more staid, conservative Japan.



As I walked around the streets of “downtown” Sausalito, I found everything delightful. The town was both quaint and cute, and each of its hundred shops and galleries was unique and fun, with exciting and unique things to see in their windows and interiors. I found also that Sausalito is a town of and for artists. Some people think that art is something lofty, difficult, a bit above most people; yet in this town, art is part of its makeup: present everywhere you go, every day. There was every kind of architecture, from classic California Victorian to the most modern. There were many Spanish-styled houses and buildings. I could not help thinking that Spanish styled buildings were very nice indeed; so different in some ways from the Japanese architecture I was used to, except perhaps for the use of beautiful roof tiles of terra cotta clay. Then I recalled that a long time ago, California was a Spanish colony. My husband speaks Spanish and I thought that was a nice link to the history of the place. But then, I also remembered a red and black-toned woodblock print by my husband’s childhood friend, Tom Killion, of the red and gold cliffs at the Marin Headlands, the fabled “Golden Gate,” that included an old, iron, or perhaps bronze cannon. Red and black – the colors of war, blood, and death: things that now seemed so contrary to the delights I was seeing. There had been a time when Spain was the enemy of Sausalito and San Francisco; but the weapons of war no longer had a place here.




III
Mill Valley



Mill Valley is located just a few minutes by car north of Sausalito on the western shore of Richardson Bay, a small inlet of the much bigger San Francisco Bay. Beyond the marshlands by the bay, the village extends westward; occupying two narrow, heavily wooded canyons that range back to what has become symbolic of Marin County, Mount Tamalpais, “The Sleeping Lady.”
The actual meaning of “Tamalpais” is a bit clouded. Some people believe that the name comes from the Miwok Indian Tribe, the first residents of Mill Valley, meaning “coast mountain” (tamal pais). Other people believe the name comes from the Spanish Tamal pais meaning “Tamal country,’ in reference to the local Indians whom the Spanish called “Tamal.” Most Mill Valley residents believe that the name is the Miwok word for “sleeping lady” or “maiden” and comes from the Miwok Legend of the Sleeping Lady. That is my belief as well; for every time I looked at the village from a distance, or see in in my mind, I see the silhouette of a giant, beautiful sleeping lady; the ridge of the mountain forming the soft curves of a reclining woman: her hair, her breast, her long flowing gown. She is elegant, sensual, maybe even erotic and if I were a man, I would want to extend my hand and touch her breast myself.
We stayed at the home of my husband’s parents, high up on the central spur of the mountain and the first thing that we did, after being settled in our room, was to walk down to the main part of the village. The streets are quite narrow, one lane, steep in many places, and the area is heavily wooded with oak, pine, cypress, acacia and eucalyptus trees, as well as more types of shrubs than I could possibly name. The first thing my husband showed to me was a stairway that extended from the street, down a steep incline, alongside a dry creek, to another street, three or four hundred feet below. He mentioned that when he was a kid, going to elementary school, he used to use the creek bed as a shortcut down, and sometimes back up. Actually, he had several such shortcuts, all of them steep. As a child, he must have developed very strong legs.
We continued down the street, past beautiful houses, some hidden behind fences, down a steep hill where it intersected with another street as well as a long flight of stairs, which led down to the main part of town: over two hundred of them. It was easy, and quick, to get down the hill that way, but I found out later that when my husband attended junior high school and high school, he went that way each day, down and up, for six years. Amazing! What endurance!
Once we reached “downtown,” we turned to the left, down a tree-lined street, past City Hall, and then into a residential neighborhood of beautiful, well-kept trees, shrubs, and fine-looking, stately homes. This was the Blithdale Canyon area, which during the late 19th century, became the first part of the valley to be well populated. This was where the wealthy and elite built their homes and settled in to the quiet life of Mill Valley, with street names like Blithdale, Bigelow, and Coronet. There is a creek, which runs all year, that flows through the neighborhood, along Blithdale Avenue, with trees gathered along its edge. The houses were perhaps a bit less grand than on Bigelow, but still equally amazing. I felt as though I was walking through a village area in Gifu Prefecture; and while some of the houses would not have fit a Japanese village, there were others that did. I saw one small house, surrounded by a low fence, with the main entrance guarded by an actual torii. The house was surrounded by towering trees and was of a design clearly taken from the early Shōwa era. There was no mistaking it. Had I been transported suddenly back to Japan? No, my husband explained, at one time, Japanese architecture was quite popular in Mill Valley; and indeed, many homes built after the beginning of the 20th century had Japanese design features and decorations.



We walked along the creek and through a wooded park area. Across the creek, hidden in the shadows of some very tall oak and laurel trees, was another house, also a bit Japanese in design, sitting by itself, with the water flowing by its front. It was magnificent to say the least, and turned my thoughts to Henry David Thoreau:

I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. I did not wish to live what was not life, living is so dear; nor did I wish to practice resignation, unless it was quite necessary. I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce it to its lowest terms, and, if it proved to be mean, why then to get the whole and genuine meanness of it, and publish its meanness to the world; or if it were sublime, to know it by experience, and be able to give a true account of it in my next excursion. For most men, it appears to me, are in a strange uncertainty about it, whether it is of the devil or of God, and have somewhat hastily concluded that it is the chief end of man here to “glorify God and enjoy him forever.”
Most of the luxuries, and many of the so-called comforts of life, are not only not indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind.
…I am no more lonely than the loon in the pond that laughs so loud, or than Walden Pond itself. What company has that lonely lake, I pray? And yet it has not the blue devils, but the blue angels in it, in the azure tint of its waters. The sun is alone, except in thick weather, when there sometimes appear to be two, but one is a mock sun. God is alone…

I watched water sprites dancing on the water of the stream, felt and heard the crunch of dried leaves beneath my feet, and did what I had not done in many long years, climbed a tree, as though the spirit of the place, the spirit of nature had set me free. For a few treasured moments, I was no longer a wife, a mother, someone with a job and responsibilities, but the little kid who had been locked away inside of me.



We walked back along Blithdale, toward the main part of town again, and each house, each garden was a marvel. I saw the church that my husband used to go to, and the place where he attended his first dance ever, a teen party for high school students, at the Outdoor Art Club; a building designed in 1904 by famed architect Bernard Maybeck, who designed many other beautiful houses in Mill Valley, Berkeley, and San Francisco, as well as the Palace of Fine Arts, the classic Greek-style domed building, a remnant of the Pan-Pacific Exposition of 1915, which stands at the edge of San Francisco Bay between the Marina Green and the Presidio.
Mill Valley is home to countless unique shops, art galleries, and restaurants and during our walk we visited as many as we possibly could. No two places were alike. We happened to walk through a gallery of shops that included a restaurant that I felt was especially wonderful, called El Paseo, “the pass.” Built decades ago of red brick, it was designed to resemble a Spanish or early Californian hacienda. The covered brick walkways and the ivy-covered walls provided a peaceful, shady escape from the sun and warmth of the day. To sit in one of the sheltered arcades, to touch the brick walls, brought on a nostalgic feeling, not unlike the feeling I had when I visited the Sierra foothills town of Folsom, which dates back to the gold rush. To sit in either of those places, to touch the walls of buildings, was to touch history.
A Mill Valley landmark, really in institution, is the Mill Valley Market on Corte Madera Avenue, which has been run by the same family, the Canepa family, since 1929. People in Mill Valley tend to be “foodies”; that is, aficionados of food and drink. Of course, the town has its supermarket, three of them, located at its east end, near the bay, but in the village itself, if one wants the best in meats, vegetables, and things uncommon, then the Mill Valley Market is the place to go. The shelves are lined with foods, fresh, canned, or packaged, from Europe, Asia, and South America: things I have never tasted let alone heard of. Why, on one shelf alone, there had to be over thirty different brands of olive oil, including oil from villages in Italy and Greece that no one in Japan knew existed. The range of foods was from the strange to the exotic: all of it, well most of it, probably delicious. However, the prices were certainly not cheap. As my husband said, “You get what you pay for,” and for some items, one pays plenty. Perhaps the price of the fresh fish, much of it flown in daily, was what shocked me the most. Of course, we could not leave the store without buying something, and so my husband introduced me to something equally as exotic as some new Italian sauce, but not nearly as expensive: root beer! Later, he would treat me to something even more exotic and tasty: a scoop of vanilla ice cream floated in a glass of root beer. Fantastic!



We walked past the wine shop, past the former railroad station, now converted to a café and book store, past the pizzeria, a toy store, a small micro-brewery, and within a few minutes, we had left the “downtown” part of the village and were back in the forest, and perhaps my favorite place of all, Old Mill Park; a charming refuge consisting of acres of towering redwood trees, oaks, and laurels, with a stream flowing through its middle. The focal point of the park, the feature that gives the park its name, is an old sawmill dating back to the 1830s. I did not hesitate to climb on its heavy, two-foot thick timbered frame and stand at its middle high above stream. There is a playground in the park for children, with swings, slides and such, but the real fun of Old Mill Park is climbing in the trees, or into the hollowed out stump of some giant redwood tree. Letting my imagination go and pretending it is a fort was even more fun. My husband, his brother, and his dog, used to come to this same park almost every day, and play; indeed, one particular stump, next to the mill was his fort. His fort became my fort, and in my imagination, I was the hero of a great battle, but a safe battle, a fun battle, with no injury or death. War is a terrible thing, but the battles of kids in the forest were fun. Then suddenly, I was on a great adventure, the leader of an expedition, Indiana Jones in the Mill Valley forest, climbing trees, descending into the creek bed, walking through a mysterious tunnel beneath the street that allowed the stream to flow from one side of the park to the other, climbing up a small cliff and then crossing an old wooden bridge.
After a while, we sat on a bench, finished our root beer, and continued to watch the children play in the park. I noticed that there were not nearly as many children as I might have expected. My husband agreed. Sadly, it seems that children do not play outside nearly as much as they used to, when we were children, whether in Japan or in Mill Valley.



Still, play seemed to be the required activity. My husband drew out a hopscotch court on the ground, a game that kids used to play when he was a kid. He told me that he hadn’t thought about the game in years and years, except for a brief mention in one of his novels, of some young black girls playing it on Fillmore Street in a San Francisco ghetto. There can be several players. The first player tosses the marker (typically a stone, coin, or beanbag) into the first square of the course. The marker must land completely within the designated square and without touching a line or bouncing out. The player then hops through the course, skipping the square with the marker in it. This process is repeated for all the players and using all the squares on the course. I’m sure we must have been an interesting sight to passersby as we played. People in middle age simply don’t play such games. Well perhaps, but we did; although, I have to say, it is probably easier to play when one is eight or ten years old. Middle age brings with it stiff joints and pain to those who dare brave the course.
Across the street from the park is Old Mill School, which dates back to the 1920s, where my husband attended grades 1 through 6, and up the street is the Mill Valley Public Library, a beautifully designed building that fits right into the middle of the redwood trees and blends into the landscape. We visited the library, then walked around the school, and then up Summit Avenue, headed for home. We passed the first Catholic church in Mill Valley, the first convent and school, all dating to the 1860s and 70s, and old Victorian houses, all sheltered among the trees. The climb up the street was not easy and we took our time, savoring the sights and the smells. At one spot, I found an old rock stairway and retaining wall, extending up from the street and then suddenly ending. What had been the entrance to a stately Victorian mansion, now led nowhere.



By the time we finished our steep climb up the hill and returned to my husband’s parent’s house, the sun had almost set. The house is a luxurious two-story house, perched on a steep slope, its garage, or “carport” as they say, perched at the edge of street on tall wooden stilts. A lavish garden sits at the front of the house and the remainder of the property is forest; providing a sanctuary for the local wildlife. Crows, ravens, jays, quail, hawks and owls, as well as many other birds make their homes here or come for the food that has daily been left out for them for years. There are also rabbits, raccoons, and the occasional skunk, as well as deer. In fact, one deer in particular, was born beneath a wooden deck, at the rear of the house on the lower level, and continued to live there for years, sleeping in the garden each day. Sadly, the deer, who had in effect become a pet, died recently when he was attacked by a mountain lion. Yes, there are also mountain lions in the area as well as bobcats and coyotes. Recently there have even been reports of bears in the region.
At night, Mill Valley is dark. There are almost no streetlights, the only light coming from the windows of the houses. And it is quiet, except for the sounds of nature. I could not help but feel how fortunate people in the village are to live surrounded by trees and animals, so silent and so beautiful.
In the morning we walked up the road and I admired all the different shapes of houses, and the shrubs and the trees – giant trees, “USA size,” and all beautiful. We hiked out onto the side of the mountain and looked up; its peak, with its ranger station, looming overhead. It seemed just as though I was on Inuyama with its mountaintop castle looking down at us. Near the top had been a hotel at one time, actually a train station, hotel, and tavern; for back in the late 19th century and into the early 20th, a railroad had run from downtown Mill Valley, what is now the café and bookstore, westward along Blithdale Avenue, and then back and forth and around the mountain. The railroad served no other purpose other than to entertain visitors; but what an exciting ride it must have been – especially going down!




IV
Point Reyes

We drove to Point Reyes on the far west coast of Marin County, from Mill Valley, over the western slope of Mt. Tamalpais, and then down to the edge of the Pacific with charming coastal towns, even smaller than Mill Valley: Stinson Beach and Bolinas. We passed through restored wetlands, now preserves for wildlife and then across the notorious San Andreas Fault which separates the Pt. Reyes National Park from the rest of Marin. The small town of Olema, near park headquarters was the epicenter of the great 1906 earthquake that destroyed San Francisco.
At park headquarters is a marvelous museum of the natural history of Pt. Reyes, the geology, the plant life, and the animals, which include mice, rabbits, foxes, coyotes, badgers, bobcats, mountain lions, deer, hawks, and vultures. At one time, there were even bears; but long before the area became a preserve, the bears had left in response to pressures from local farms and ranches; yet there have been reports of bear sightings in the area: perhaps they are returning. The museum also features many displays of the ocean wildlife that call the region home or visit it each year, including California sea lions, elephant seals, sharks, and whales. Because the area has been preserved and protected from much of man’s intrusion into nature, the flora and fauna flourish.



What interested me most were the many hiking trails that branch out from park headquarters; trails that will take you up into the steep, tree-covered hills, into marshlands and meadows, or down to the San Andreas Fault itself. I elected to take the long, winding, but easy trail down to the fault line.
The path took me past vast meadows of tall grasses, golden and green, surrounded by thick growths of trees, far different from those that thrive on the eastern side of the fault in the main part of Marin. Then I encountered a stream, shaded by trees and shrubs that paralleled the trail, carrying sweet, cool water southward through the park. There were also what are called “sag ponds”; areas where the motion of the fault has pulverized the rock and soil so that it has sunk and compacted and water has collected, giving cattails, reeds and willows a place to grow. On the other side of the fault were high, rounded ridges, “mole tracks” as my husband called them, because they resemble the tracks that a mole or gopher might make in a garden. Actually, they are pressure ridges, pushed upward by the immense forces present in the San Andreas – energy so great as to be unimaginable, and which is palpable as one stands there. The great energy surrounds the visitor and rises up through one’s feet into their body. The feeling can be both awesome and frightening at one time.
Lining the trail were also huge growths of wild blackberry bushes. The climate at Pt. Reyes is cool and summer comes later there than it does to the rest of Marin; still, young berries were to be found everywhere, then red but soon to be black and sweet. I kept hoping that by some strange quirk of nature, the bears had possibly returned and that I would encounter one helping himself to a tasty blackberry snack. I wanted to see a bear, not in some cage or grotto in a zoo, but roaming wild. I wanted to be wild, as free a spirit as the bears and the bunnies of Pt. Reyes. I kept saying to myself, “Come on bear. Come just for a moment. Look! I brought my husband with me. Take a look. Perhaps he is a bit tasty!” But no bear came.
A visitor can walk right up onto the fault line; in fact, there is a fence that runs east and west that crosses the rupture from the 1906 earthquake. The fence has been broken, separated, with the western part of the fence eighteen feet north of the eastern part. This is how far the earth moved during the Great San Francisco Earthquake, in a matter of three seconds according to eyewitnesses. Here again, the great energy could be felt: it surrounded me.



This is a wonderful place for school students to learn about earthquakes, crustal shift, and the powers of nature. I could not help but to think that people who live in San Francisco and the Bay Area could perhaps understand, better than most, Japan’s own recent disaster and sadness because of an earthquake. Human beings have for ages tried to fight against nature, to overcome such marvels as storms, and quakes, and now continue the fight by use of modern technology. The thinking is that if the technology is possible, then fewer people will die as a result of natural disasters. But, I cannot help but wonder if this is in a way “wrong thinking?” To fight against nature is to fight against the gods. Is such a fight possible to win? Personally, I think in the end, it is impossible. I am sure that many people would disagree with me, particularly people who live in northern Honshū. “We should overcome nature,” they might argue, “so that there are no more victims of such calamities.” Still, I think that in the long-term, it is impossible to fight against nature. We must leave nature to itself. It would be better if we work to become better stewards of the earth and to avoid the wrath of the gods. Nature is art made by the gods. Can we alter or control the art of the gods? It is impossible.

V
An Evening Walk in Mill Valley

That evening we were back in Mill Valley walking through the neighborhood at sunset. The air was warm and except for the occasional car passing us by, all was quiet. I found myself transported back to Japan; for as we walked, I discovered almost countless Japanese-style wooden fences; the same fences that one would see walking down a neighborhood street in Kyōto or even see in some samurai film. My curiosity got the best of me. I had to see what was behind those fences that often had thick, tall bamboo growing in front of them. “Oh my!” I thought as I peeked through several of them along the way. “Samurai houses! I have come from Japan, only to arrive in Japan again!” The feeling was unbelievable and at the same time confusing. There were samurai houses, some of them magnificent, worthy of an Edo period daimyo. Was I in the hills of Kyōto again? Was I back home in Tajimi? I had to take photographs to show my friends. They would never believe that I was in Mill Valley. I could almost hear them, “Oh, you went to Kyōto?”



There are also strange houses in Mill Valley; houses with ghosts, houses that have witnessed murders. My husband took me to one such house not far from his parent’s home. In fact, it had been the home of two of his friends and playmates from his childhood. However, years later, a lone, psychotic murder entered the home and massacred the family. Knowing ahead of time that I was going to visit this house, I expected a feeling, an experience, like that one might expect from an American horror movie, such as Friday The 13th. Instead of the terror, what I found, perhaps because of Mill Valley’s old Victorian and Japanese architecture or because of the lush trees and shrubs, set on a quiet mountain, was an eeriness, a gothic beauty more appropriate to a 19th century novel than modern California. In Mill Valley, even horror, even a haunted house, has gothic beauty.

VI
Looking Back

The next morning it was time to leave Mill Valley and Marin. Reluctantly we drove south on the highway that led back to San Francisco were our trip began; high above Sausalito and San Francisco Bay, through a tunnel whose southern portal is painted with rainbows, into the fog and across the Golden Gate Bridge. We stopped at the south end of the bridge, the toll plaza, and looked back. There in the wind, in the fog, was the famous bridge, and behind that, the golden and red cliffs of the entrance to San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate. No longer could I see what had become my beloved Mt. Tamalpais or Mill Valley, or even Sausalito. Only the water, the bridge, and the old fortifications that I saw in Tom Killion’s print.



Mill Valley changed me; I hope for the better. It is not a high-tech town, nor is it necessarily a place of convenience. The streets are narrow, winding, and sometimes even dangerous. There are few streetlights. In a winter storm, a broken branch from a tree is likely to knock out electrical power or phone service to a neighborhood. People do not drive their cars as much; instead, they walk or ride bicycles, even though the hills are steep. There are creatures that roam the hills: bobcats, coyotes, even the occasional mountain lion. In Mill Valley inconvenience does not mean poor. It is a town rich in imagination and art. There are riches of mind and of spirit. There are no big hotels, no department stores. Yes, there are a couple of supermarkets on the outskirts of, but what fun are they? Shopping in Mill Valley Market, as small as it may be and as narrow as the aisles are, is more like a visit to a toy store.
In Mill Valley, in the shadow of the Sleeping Lady, I could see art. I could touch history. I was free to use the imagination of a child. I could see impossible, imaginary things; a tree stump became a fort, and a small tunnel with a creek running through it, beneath a road, became a mysterious place. I could climb trees and play in Old Mill Park, and become anything I wanted.
As the actor, Peter Coyote, who lives up on the mountain and loves Mill Valley said, “This is my turf…a place where I can get good meat form Kean’s (the butcher at the Mill Valley Market), impeccable service from Dimitroff the framer, and careful attention to my car from Olivera’s gas station. There are deer in my yard every day.”
I think back now to the trees, the creeks, the old houses, the mountain, and the deep blue sky above it. These are simple things, but such simplicity, such freedom to imagine, even to be a kid and play, are things we truly need, and we too often forget.







  



Translated by Tokugawa H.
Copyright © 2011 by Aoi Tokugawa.